poop ‘n scoop, French style


LONDON. The British scoop, why can’t the French?

Do you poop ‘n scoop? Or, rather, does your dog poop and you scoop? Because only a minority of the French do, and I wonder why that is. Do they consider it beneath them to stoop?

Here in my building, we’re in the midst of a battle with a teenage boy and his dog. It used to be an adorable puppy, but now it’s a full-blown shitter. Does he have any parents? (the boy, not the dog.) Does he have any sense of civic responsibility? (again, the boy, not the dog.) And who’s to blame? The boy, the dog, or the parents? (if he has any). Or maybe the government is to blame. The French blame their government for everything, it absolves them from personal responsibility.

Last week I came home from work – in the rain and the dark – at about 7 pm. On the walkway in front of the door of my building was a massive pile of excrement. Because of the rain, it had started to liquify and was spreading like diarrhea all over the tiled walkway. It stank to high heaven. People were coming in and out of the building and slipping and sliding (in the dark) on this stinking mess. I was so disgusted, I went up to my apartment, wrote on a sheet of paper: CECI EST ABSOLUMENT DEGOUTANT, LE PROPRIETAIRE AUSSI, went back downstairs and stuck it on the inside of the glass lobby door. (This is absolutely disgusting, the owner too.)

The next day I ran into the kid and the dog in front of the building. “Was that you, or rather your dog, that shit in front of the building last night?” I said, in French. (Est-ce que c’était toi, ou plutôt ton chien, qui a chié devant l’immeuble hier soir?) Of course he denied it. That was last week. Tonight, I came home from work at around 6, ran upstairs to get my shopping caddy and my winter coat (a cold front from Siberia is on its way to Western Europe; this weekend and next week is forecast to be freezing), went back outside and who do I run into on the opposite sidewalk? The kid again. His dog, caught in the act of flagrant délit, was doing a crap in the middle of the sidewalk. I walked by with my caddy, and in a rare and remarkable display of self-restraint, I didn’t say a word. The kid, however, saw me coming and pulled a plastic bag out of his pocket. Good for him, I said to myself as I headed up the street, he’s becoming toilet trained.

But, no! An hour later I walked down that same sidewalk, my caddy filled with groceries, and there was a big pile of merde in that same spot. Fresh. From that dog. The kid never picked it up.

And that, ladies and gentlemen, is just one example of the recalcitrant attitude of many French people, all ages. When they think no-one’s looking, they perform all sorts of uncivic acts.


And it’s not just dogs who do their business in the street. Two Sundays ago, I was standing in front of my window talking to a friend on the phone when a municipal street-cleaner, directly across the road from my apartment and standing on the sidewalk, looked both ways, didn’t see anyone, unzipped his fly and urinated into the street.

“You’ll never guess what I’m looking at,” I said to my friend on the phone.

I’ve just looked at a website for the City of Paris and burst out laughing. Under DOGS AND THEIR OWNERS, it says – Dogs have natural needs and it’s up to their owners to ensure that sidewalks don’t become public dog toilets (I’m translating). Pour cela il y a une seule solution : ramasser les déjections !  For this, there is only one solution: pick up their droppings! It is not very complicated. You only need a pair of rubber gloves and some paper towels. 

Rubber gloves? You mean, like, my bright pink dish gloves?? I’ve just had a mental image of men and women alike, strolling with their dogs down Parisian streets wearing brightly-colored dish gloves. It could become a fashion trend!

Here in France you see motorcycles with vacuum cleaners attached to them, they’re called motocrottes. (the polite term for dog doo is crotte de chien.) Three motocrottes cost around 36.000 euros. Brigades of them drive around cities, sucking up dog dirt. No wonder taxes are so high in this country. The French would rather pay high taxes for a motocrotte than stoop behind the derrière of their poodle and do the dirty work themselves. That’s the truth of it. Why they believe they are superior to the rest of us is a mystery I’ve been pondering for over two decades.


Next blog post: as a pedestrian, do you stop at red lights? Of course you do. I only ask because the French don’t. They truly believe that a red light does not concern them. (French pedestrians see green light, even when it’s red: study)

In July 2011, I was in Calgary, Alberta. I haphazardly crossed a city street and was immediately stopped by two policeman who issued me a ticket for jaywalking. When they asked me why I did what I did, I was completely stumped for an answer. I wasn’t used to people asking me (especially policemen) why I did certain things … especially things like crossing a street. “Because I live in France,” I blurted out. They just stared at me. I felt foolish.

Claude Dozorme (mystery photo)

Last week I posted this mystery photo and asked what you thought the men (and their dogs) were doing. Well, the answer is below.


They’re sharpening knives! 

From the Claude Dozorme website – Built along the banks of the River Durolle, in what is now known as the « Vallée des Usines » (Factory Valley), the knife-making workshops took full advantage of the river’s hydraulic power to produce and supply massive numbers of knives to wholesaler ironmongers in France. Local memory still remembers the « yellow bellies », the hundreds of grinders who sharpened blades lying on their stomachs above the millstones, a position specific to the French cutlery industry, with a dog lying on their legs to keep them warm.

Take a look at the interesting English-language link below which describes the Puy de Dôme region in the center of France (the Auvergne) and the medieval town of Thiers whose cutlery industry spans six centuries. For those familiar with the famous Laguiole knives, they’re also made in Thiers.


mystery photo

I bet you’ll never guess what these men are doing. Talk about lying down on the job! And why do they have dogs snuggled on their backs?

Here’s a hint: the workshop is situated directly above a river in the town of Thiers in the department of Puy-de-Dôme in the Auvergne region of central France.

Stay tuned for the answer (unless someone can provide the answer to this mystery photo …)


cooking classes and culinary schools in Paris

When I was a teenager, I wanted to be a saucier.

“A what?” people would say.

“A saucier,” I’d reply (saucily), “Someone who makes sauces.”

But in fact, it’s not only sauces. A saucier also prepares stocks, soups and stews and hot hors d’oeuvres such as grilled scallops, baked puff pastry, stuffed mushrooms or miniature beef wellingtons, to name a few.

In the end I never did become a saucier, at least not a professional one, but it’s never too late to learn. Just sign up for a course or two at a culinary school (or enroll in a longer-term certificate course.) What’s fun for a tourist to Paris is to attend a morning or afternoon workshop in a famous cooking school – like the Cordon Bleu or Alain Ducasse – to make macarons, your own baguette, meat and fish dishes, or participate in wine tastings. In most schools, classes are in English. There are even classes for children.

kids cooking


Yum … you can learn to make these!

Here’s the link to the Alain Ducasse Cooking School in English. Other links are below.

bon appétit !





big January sales, Shu Uemura, and Paris department stores


When I heard that Shu Uemura was having a sale of 40% off on all of their products, I headed over to Galeries Lafayette department store after work. 

Twice a year, in January and in June, there are monster sales in this country. That’s when I buy most of my clothing, bed linens, cosmetics, and other things normally beyond my budget. For those who don’t know, Shu Uemura is a (fabulous) Japanese cosmetic and skincare products line. You should try their products at least once, some are iconic, like their cleansing oil. Described as “an extraordinary cleansing experience”, the newest Anti-Oxi oil removes micro impurities and stubborn make-up in one full swoop. It all comes off, eye makeup and lipstick included. And it’s not oily.

Their individual eye shadows come in a breathtaking range of hues and colors, as well as their lipsticks. All in all, it’s a great brand.

Later, while wandering around Heyraud shoe store in search of flat black ankle boots, I found these, also at 40% off. Made in Portugal. (Another reason to visit Portugal: gorgeous leather goods.)


Paris’s two department stores, Galeries Lafayette and Au Printemps, have changed dramatically since I first started shopping there in the 1990s. Today, you will find Mandarin or Cantonese-speaking hostesses positioned at each entry point and standing on every floor at the top of each escalator. The entire shopping experience has been calibrated to serve the Chinese/Asian shopper.

Only three days ago, The Wall Street Journal published an article entitled New Wave of Chinese Shoppers Splurges on Luxury Goods, by Matthew Dalton. Here’s an excerpt:

On a recent morning in the Parisian department store Galeries Lafayette, Meng Xin from Beijing was at the Céline boutique to buy a €1,250 handbag. With demand reviving, Galeries Lafayette has opened a store across the street from its main location in central Paris to serve tour buses filled with Chinese shoppers. All signs are in Chinese and French. The new outlet is meant to free up Galeries Lafayette’s main store for more discerning Chinese customers.

“China has become extremely dynamic,” said Bernard Arnault, chief executive and controlling shareholder of LVMH Möet Hennessy Louis Vuitton.

On Thursday, the luxury conglomerate and industry bellwether reported record annual revenue and profits, led by a surge in Chinese sales. Revenue for 2017 was €42.6 billion, up 13%, while profits rose 29%.

It’s true that sometimes the ordinary shopper feels a little bit pushed out. For those who haven’t read my 2015 post entitled Department stores, Chinese shoppers, and searching for a frying pan, here it is here –


riding the Lisbon tram

Hopefully, I’ll get to Portugal this year. I’ve been wanting to go for ages. For those who don’t know, Portugal has become wildly popular in a surprisingly short period of time. It was only yesterday that the country was plunged into a crippling economic recession (from 2010 to 2014). And then it made a stunning recovery. Now, tourists and retirees alike are flocking there to play golf, soak up the sun, drink wine, hike in the hills, visit art museums, and listen to “fado” music.

Madonna just bought a house there. John Malkovich goes regularly (from his home in southern France). And last year, Travel + Leisure named the country Destination of the Year.

Here’s an article in London’s The Telegraph titled 22 reasons why everyone’s going to Portugal right now, plus a Youtube video of the Tram 28.

So, what are you waiting for?


French president Macron on the BBC

This is interesting to watch because most of us here in France have never heard Macron speaking English. Aside from pronouncing “co-operation” like “corporation”, his English is near-perfect.

Recently turned 40 (Emmanuel Jean-Michel Frédéric Macron was born on December 21st, 1977), he’s also nice to look at. Oh, sorry, I’m not supposed to say that, it’s sexist. Oh, heck, I’ll say what I want, it’s my blog.

Don’t be fooled by his angelic face, though. He’s aggressive and takes no prisoners.

Macron was just in the U.K. for a summit meeting with Theresa May. As for the Bayeux Tapestry which Macron has agreed to lend to the United Kingdom in 2022, he said the two countries were “making a new tapestry together”.