
I logged on to Elle magazine yesterday, hyped and ready to fire off a feisty email to the editor complaining about the offensive remarks made by French film director, François Ozon, at the Cannes film festival, when – to my surprise and delight – I saw that an uproar had already begun and the e-mails were pouring in from irate women. Hooray! French women have finally woken up! This is indeed good news. Up until now, it was always someone of a different nationality (usually me) who had to complain about the sexist attitudes in this country. Why? Because French women had a tendency to keep quiet over such matters. (I’m convinced that it’s because of a system of patriarchal Catholic rule which indoctrinates docility and lies at the foundation of French schooling here.)
I don’t do docile.
So what exactly were the offensive remarks of François Ozon, Parisian film director? While in Cannes promoting his new film entitled Jeune et Jolie (Young and Beautiful), a story about a 17-year girl from an affluent Parisian family who decides to prostitute herself “for fun“, Ozon said to reporters: “It’s a fantasy of many women to do prostitution.”
Oh, really? And whose fantasy might this be? Yours or women’s?
I don’t recall fantasizing about being a prostitute when I was 17. I was too busy going to high school, working part-time at Woolco, and having fun like any normal, balanced 17-year old. Recreational marijuana-smoking was about as far as I went, not recreational prostitution.
The feminist group FEMEN tweeted that it would like to present Ozon with the “2013 Golden Asshole Award”.
What’s most insulting, aside from the obvious, is Ozon’s apparent frivolity as he trivializes prostitution. Tragically, men, women and children the world over must resort to prostitution in order to survive. Drive a car one night through the notorious Bois de Boulogne, situated 20 minutes from my apartment, and you’ll see prostitutes who, I’m guessing, would be baffled by Mr. Ozon’s film. Had Ozon taken the subject matter seriously, he could have done a different kind of film that addresses the reality of prostitution: at least it would be credible. But he doesn’t have the honesty to do such a project. His empty film depicting a minor as a whore because she wants to “feel alive” is nothing more than voyeurism and male fantasy. Lay claim to your own fantasies, Monsieur Ozon; don’t foist them onto women and say they are ours.
Two events brusquely jolted the French out of their reverie vis-a-vis their archaic attitudes towards women: the arrest of Dominique Strauss-Kahn in New York in May 2011 and the arrival onto French soil of the feminist Ukrainian group, FEMEN, at about the same time (see my March 7 post re these brave topless warriors.) On a Sunday morning, over croissants and steaming bowls of café au lait, the entire nation stared with collective incredulity at their TV screens. What were they looking at? Surreal images played over and over for all the world to see of their well-known countryman and respected economist – who was not only the head of the IMF in Washington, but candidate to be the next president of France! – handcuffed, unshaven and flanked on either side by burly New York policemen before being shoved into the back of a car and driven off to prison on charges of alleged criminal sexual assault. This was reality TV at its most horrific. It was, as the French press called it, an electroshock.
There’s nothing like a pair of handcuffs and the clang of a Rikers Island prison gate to shrivel a sex offender’s dick.
Flash-forward two years: it took half a year for the French to come out of denial. During that time we had to endure endless TV talk shows (what, again?) and long, tortuous, psycho-babble written in weekly magazines dissecting what was so obvious to us, the outsiders, and seemingly oblivious to them. Two-thirds of the country believed it was a Sarkozy-orchestrated plot; that – in collusion with the French-owned Sofitel hotel where the assault took place – Sarkozy had planned the whole thing in an attempt to sabotage DSK’s presidency bid. And then, after denial comes derision. Now an Abel Ferrara film called Welcome to New York portraying Strauss-Kahn and his sex-crazed antics has been made starring Gérard Depardieu and Jacqueline Bisset. No-one knows the release date of this film, but when and if it finally comes out, you can be sure that movie theatres will be packed in France.
Had the Strauss-Kahn / Nafissatou Diallo calamity occurred in Paris it would’ve been swiftly silenced, just like Strauss-Kahn’s prior transgressions had been silenced by the practice of a mafia-like code of honour here called omerta. For decades (we later learned) DSK had been groping and harassing women. Either none of the victims had come forward to complain, or they had come forward but were jeered at and dismissed by the macho men’s club that runs the Gallic corridors of power. The wake-up call that France sorely needed to shake itself out of its dusty, last-century torpor were those TV images of DSK in handcuffs played over and over with the eyes of the outside world looking on: judging and criticizing unacceptable French behaviour that had carried on, unchallenged, for centuries; unchallenged by both men and women. Better late than never, I suppose.

















Herring Street. Why do brick walls fascinate me so?
These brick façades remind me of certain buildings in Lower Manhattan.
I returned to this 19th-century shopping arcade that I liked so much. (For a larger selection of photos of this gorgeous gallery and the above square, please see my Brussels January 2013 post):
Love these Camper sandals. 160 euros:
Stopped to fuel up with my 4th espresso of the day:
Waffles at the table next to me, another specialty of Belgium; they’re called gaufres.


I’m guessing that the majority of tourists who visit Paris never venture out to the business district called La Défense located on the city’s west side. If you do happen to go there (I recommend it), you’ll find yourself in a large, modernistic, automobile-free, open space amidst a forest of high-rise towers interspersed with low-rise apartment buildings. At the very end of the long Esplanade are two shopping centers – the CNIT and Les Quatre Temps – containing a myriad of stores, restaurants, a massive supermarket called Auchan and a multiplex cinema.

Now I know many people who say they loathe La Défense because of its concrete slabs and dehumanizing uniformity. They say the place is devoid of charm or soul. I happen to disagree. I find a poetic expression in the design of the urban space here. I think the planners have done an excellent job in humanizing the concrete landscape with the presence of outdoor art installations, grassy squares and benches, fountains (one which vigorously splashes up and down in tune with classical music played loudly on speakers), whimsical sculptures, seasonal markets, a summer jazz festival, etc. A few years ago the Christmas decorations were sensational, but I’ve noticed in the last few years (since France has entered into recession) the municipality has cut back on such extravagances.
The best part is the absence of cars and lack of crowds; the entire space is dedicated to pedestrians. I suggest that you get on the metro (the number one central line) and get off at metro stop Esplanade de la Défense, which is only 5 stops from Charles de Gaulle-Etoile station on the Champs-Elysées. Then stroll the entire length of the Esplanade. You’ll be rewarded with a stunning symmetrical view of Paris behind you and the vista of La Défense with its cube-shaped, Danish-designed La Grande Arche in front of you (below.) You can take an outdoor elevator up to the roof for a fantastic view. If you walk around to the back of the Grande Arche, you’ll find an unexpected long, narrow, wooden footpath, similar to a jetty, that juts over a graveyard and the suburb of Courbevoie.
Here below is the CNIT building full of shops (Habitat, Decathlon, FNAC, a very good organic food and cosmetic shop on the lower level, Monoprix, etc.) The CNIT is also a conference center.



USEFUL INFORMATION – there are several hotels on the Esplanade: the IBIS, NOVOTEL, SOFITEL, HILTON and FRASER SUITES HARMONIE that sometimes offer special rates (depending on the season) lower than central Paris rates. From La Défense, it takes 10 minutes to reach the Champs-Elysées on the metro.
Strategically located at the centre of a triangle connecting Paris, London and Brussels, Lille has its own Eurostar train terminal that links the four cities. Lille was elected European Capital of Culture in 2004.
There’s a lot of brick in Lille that you don’t see elsewhere in France. I think this building is a refurbished textile factory.
Attached to the end of the hotel is an excellent, reasonably-priced restaurant called L’Estaminet.
I took the kids there for lunch. It was so warm and sunny we sat on the terrace. They’re not my kids, incidentally. They are the children of my best friend who lives in Lille.
The fruit salad was delicious.



The kids call this “le parc rouge” on account of the red gates, but it’s really called the Jean-Baptiste Lebas park. After I read the biography of this fervent politician turned resistance leader during World War II who was captured by the Germans in 1941, sent from camp to camp and eventually died from exhaustion after years of forced labour, I agree that this man deserves a beautiful park named after him.
Unfortunately our favourite place was closed that day. Located directly across the road is a refurbished train station called La Gare Saint Sauveur. We go there all the time. It’s now a recreational space for kids and adults. There’s a cinema, a restaurant, a hall with changing exhibitions, science fairs and occasional free sports activities for kids.
Later in the afternoon I dumped the kids (sorry, kids) and headed over to the main square to get lost in the maze of narrow streets in the Old Town. This is where the best shopping is.
On this May Day, the 1st of May, everything is closed in France except for a few boulangeries and cafés. It’s a national holiday. A perfect day to loaf. Europeans love loafing. In France we have four bank holidays just in the month of May alone!

The deeper you penetrate the Old Town, the narrower the streets.
I got totally lost, but that’s the fun of wandering. When lost you can stumble upon unexpected treasures which you might not discover otherwise.
Like this amazing pastry shop called Aux Merveilles de Fred on the rue de la Monnaie. They sell a Flemish specialty of Lille called cramique which is a sort of dense, yellow-coloured brioche studded with raisins. Delicious with coffee in the morning. The queue of customers waiting to buy spilled out into the street.
I love the brick; it reminds me of England.
High-end and also funky boutiques line the streets of the Old Town.

There are also several chocolate shops and a Nespresso boutique. Throw in a bottle of wine and what more do you need?
And that was my day in Lille. Within one hour and 45 minutes I was back in my flat in Paris. Stay tuned for an upcoming post on Brussels. Monday May 20 is another holiday here and I’m off to Brussels for three days. For those who missed it, I posted two Brussels blogs in January. I had such a great time there (despite the freezing cold), I’m going back for more.