At precisely 1:20 pm the regional train – near-empty and spanking clean – pulled out of Lecce train station and made its way through scrub countryside to the coastal town of Polignano a Mare. Perched dramatically on a clifftop overlooking the Adriatic Sea, this dazzling città will instantly seduce you.
If I had only one word to describe this utterly charming town, it would have to be clean. Clean and sparkling white. It was a joy to walk through the maze of narrow lanes in the old town, past the small shops and private homes. At one point I even removed my sandals just to feel the smooth, velvety stone under my feet. The wind that blows in from the sea is also clean – constant, cleansing and calming. Lecce and Polignano a Mare are, in my opinion, two feel-good, regenerating places.
Below is the view from my hotel. As I peered over the ledge, I was horrified to see groups of teenagers clustered on the rocks below, some diving into the water. It looked awfully dangerous and I thought to myself – How can their parents let them do this? They probably did the same when they were young!
The hotel has this lovely rooftop terrace where breakfast is served. I recommend this family-run establishment for its location, its super comfortable beds and its fresh, clean décor.
I meandered into the old town and came across this beautiful old church (look at that gorgeous stonework). It’s called the Purgatory Church.
I pushed open the door and, as is my wont, walked around its cool, dim interior. It was only when my eyes became accustomed to the dark did I realize I was not alone. In the nave of the small church was a casket – an open one – and I saw an elderly man lying inside, his hands folded across his chest. I froze. There was no-one else in the church, just him and me. A shiver passed through my body and I suddenly felt cold. And then the heavy door creaked open and a group of women came in, swathed in black. I muttered “Scusi”, and slid discreetly past them. Stepping out of the church, I stood blinking in the strong sunlight. I felt sad. Sad for their loss…and for loss in general.
MORE TO COME….
Hotel – Malù Bed & Breakfast
Here’s one of the more popular ice cream and pastry shops situated at the entrance of the old town.
There are churches galore here – lavishly and exuberantly decorated. One guidebook describes the city as “a riot of cherubs”.
